[Kevin] admits that FreeCAD may not be the ideal tool for editing STL files. But it is possible, and he shares some practical advice in the video below. If you want to get the most out of your 3D printer, it pays to be able to create new parts, and FreeCAD is a fine option for that. However, sometimes you download an STL from the Internet, and it just isn’t quite what you need.

Unlike native CAD formats, STLs are meshes of triangles, so you get very large numbers of items, which can be unwieldy. The first trick is to get the object exactly centered. That’s easy if you know how, but not easy if you are just eyeballing it.

If you use the correct workbench, FreeCAD can analyze and fix mesh problems like non-manifold parts, flipped normals, and other issues. The example is a wheel with just over 6,000 faces, which is manageable. But complex objects may make FreeCAD slow. [Kevin] says you should be fine until the number of faces goes above 100,000. In that case, you can decimate the number of faces with, of course, a corresponding loss in resolution.

Once you are satisfied with the mesh, you can create a real FreeCAD shape from the mesh. The resulting object will be hollow, so the next step will be to convert the shape to a solid.

That still leaves many triangles when you really want flat surfaces to be, well, flat. The trick is to make a copy and use the “refine shape” option for the copy. Once you have a FreeCAD solid, you can do anything you can do in FreeCAD.

We’ve run our share of FreeCAD tips if you want more. There are other ways to tweak STLs, too.

[Clough42] created a 3D print for a lathe tool and designed in some support to hold the piece on the bed while printing. It worked, but removing the support left unsightly blemishes on the part. A commenter mentioned that the support doesn’t have to exactly touch the part to support it. You can see the results of trying that method in the video below.

In this case [Cloug42] uses Fusion, but the idea would be the same regardless of how you design your parts. Originally, the support piece was built as a single piece along with the target object. However, he changed it to make the object separate from the support structure. That’s only the first step, though. If you import both pieces and print, the result will be the same.

Instead, he split the part into the original two objects that touch but don’t blend together. The result looks good.

We couldn’t help but notice that we do this by mistake when we use alternate materials for support (for example, PETG mixed with PLA or PLA with COPE). Turns out, maybe you don’t have to switch filament to get good results.